The oxtail dumplings — they go through a lot of oxtail here — are thick-skinned and clumpy, although I liked the demiglace-rich filling.
The risotto will be as Italian as the original dish is Indonesian.
You can flavor your broth with fried shallots, chile sambal or a few drops of what smells like but probably isn’t fino sherry.
The noodles are essentially curly, chewy ramen noodles.
The first time you try Bone Kettle, Erwin Tjahyadi’s new proto-Indonesian restaurant in Pasadena, you may spend a certain amount of time figuring out what to do with the leftovers, which will be substantial.
Crunchy wisps of meat from fried oxtail tips would probably be nice with fried noodles, or even stirred cold the next morning into Bone Kettle’s gently flavored crab fried rice.
At Bone Kettle, Tjahyadi is following a different groove, influenced but not limited by the Indonesian flavors he grew up with, more restaurant than street food, with an emphasis on communal dining and shared dishes that feels surprisingly natural.
So his , the long-braised beef dish that is an Indonesian standard, is dense, salty and umami-rich instead of spoonably soft and smelling of sweet spice, and his citrus-brined chicken wings are heartier, stickier than the traditional double-cooked Indonesian bird.
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Bone broth, they sighed, is just another word for stock.